In ancient times, Romans crossing the Tevere (Tiber) River entered an unruly encampment of ungovernable Etruscans, foul-mouthed traders and bawdy serving wenches. Happily, some things never change. Trastevere is home to Rome's liveliest bars, fiercest street fashion and on Sundays, its best flea market at Porta Portese. Everyone complains about the tourists, including the tourists, but that doesn't stop Romans from strapping on lethal stilettos and clomping down Trastevere's twisted cobblestoned alleys for a weekend passegiata (evening stroll). Follow all-age crowds meandering past pubs, boutiques and gelato shops toward the glittering medieval mosaic faade of Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere. Across Viale di Trastevere are the neighborhood's hidden gems: Porta Portese, with live blues and jazz clubs, and Basilica di Santa Cecilia in Trastevere, where recent excavations revealed stunning 13th century angel frescoes. Savvy foodies skip Trastevere tourist menus and assemble picnics from bakeries and San Cosimato market stalls.
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Getting Around Roma
The best way to get around Rome is by using the Metropolitana and by walking. The metro runs approximately every 7-10 minutes, from 5:30 a.m.-11.30 p.m. Sunday-Friday and until 12:30 a.m. on Saturday. Fare is €1 for a single ride or €4 for a 24-hour pass. 3-day passes are available for €11 and 7-day passes for €16. Driving in Rome is possible, but not for the faint-hearted. Walking is an excellent alternative to the metro in the city's historic center.
Nearby Airports
  • Leonardo da Vinci–Fiumicino Airport-FCO
Airport Taxis
  • €48 (Check for SPQR, which will tell you it's a licensed Roman taxi.)
Things to Do and See Near Trastevere