“Travel can be one of the most rewarding forms of introspection.”
Nowhere in London has redevelopment been more controversial than the Docklands. The Canary Wharf looks like a mini-Manhattan, and Cesar Pelli's glittering skyscraper here is often denounced as a symbol of Thatcherite greed. The historic glass-fronted warehouses of Wapping and St. Katherine's Dock seem forlorn amid the modern concrete sprawl and noisy highways feeding Rotherhithe Tunnel. But Wapping waterfront still feels like a village, and across the Thames in Rotherhithe, you can toast the Pilgrim Fathers at the ancient Mayflower Inn, where they set sail for the New World. North at Leamouth, the river enters the Lower Lea Valley and snakes around the Olympic Park, home to the 2012 Olympics.