“Every day is a journey, and the journey itself is home.”
City planners gave Rome's market quarter an industrial-neoclassical overhaul in the 19th century, but the flavors of ancient Rome remain remarkably intact in Testaccio. Romans and adventurous eaters flock here for such classic Roman dishes as trippa alla romana (tripe with mint and tomato) and coratella (entrails), dishes made from animal parts left over after Roman legions took their prime cuts of meat. Meat is major in Testaccio, where Rome's official slaughterhouses sliced and diced daily until 1975. Today the hulking slaughterhouse complex houses university architecture programs, art galleries, cultural centers, and major music festivals in summer. Testaccio is Rome's outpost of edgy industrial cool and foodie authenticity, especially now that the local train station office has been converted into Eataly, a three-story Slow Food emporium featuring regional specialty foods, gourmet classes with star chefs, pasta, and espresso galore.